How to choose men’s suit?
Choosing the right size of a suit is an important process for any man. The correct decision is affected by the design, the silhouette of the suit and the basic size of human body (for the jacket – it’s the size and chest circumference, for trousers – size and hip circumference).
Do not be afraid to deviate from its usual size when choosing a costume. For example, a man with a chest girth of 102 centimeters traditionally chooses the size of 50. However, among different models he may choose the 48th and even 46th size. Everything depends on the style and degree of suit form fitting.
Rule No.1 Choose a suit by the jacket, and not by trousers
Often, the chest girth and the waist line of men do not fall within the scope of the same size. A common mistake in this case is to buy a suit, choosing trousers that come in size and fit well. The main attention should be paid to the jacket. This is due to the fact that the size of trousers can be changed much easier as the waistband has such an option. The tailor can easily increase or decrease the size of pants with one complete size.
Rule No.2 The shoulders
The first thing to consider when choosing a jacket – it’s the way it sits in the shoulder area. Other parameters can be easily adjusted: to shorten or lengthen the sleeve, take in or expand at an average or jacket side seams.
Rule No.3 The sleeves
Th jacket sleeve ends where the hand begins and the cuffs of the shirt should peek out a half centimeters from under the sleeve of the jacket (the allowable length reaches 2.5 cm). Despite the fact that this rule is known to all, many men ignore it.
In fact, this part has not only an aesthetic, but also a practical function: the cuff protects the jacket sleeve from staining. It is much easier to wash a shirt than to give a jacket to the dry cleaners. For the same reason the collar of the shirt is above jacket with 1.5 cm.
Rule No.4 The length of trousers
Trousers length depends on its width. The principle is simple – the tighter the trousers are, the shorter they should be. Slacks can reach the back of the shoes heel and in front it has to form a pleat. The allowable length of trousers of average width is until mid-leather heel of shoes. Only tight pants can reveal the ankle.
Rule No.5 The texture of the fabric
We are used to pay attention to the compatibility of colors, but often forget about the texture of fabric of the suit, shirt, tie and of the pocket squares. A key role in the selection of textures is having the season. A separate group are the so-called “all-season” classic suits of medium density wool fabric. These can be easily supplemented by the same universal shirt and silk tie.
When choosing a winter jacket or a suit made of soft, heavy and textured fabrics, do not combine them with a light summer tie.
Rule No.6 Pattern and color
The main principle regarding the pattern of the suit, shirt, tie and pocket squares is the right combination of colors and prints. Adhering to this rule, for example, a stripped or checked suit can be combined with a shirt that has a similar pattern, but not so bright.
The suitsupply often goes beyond the “rule of three colors” and combines shades in a more complex way. The vest may not match the color of the suit, and the tie – with the pocket squares, but this all will be in a sound harmony.
If you are not sure about the combination of patterns, colors and textures, it is advisable to listen to the advice of a consultant or choose an image, based on the latest men’s fashion trends.
Rule No.7 Shoes and socks
The black shoes is the most official, it is indispensable for tuxedo and formal suits. Brown shoes are also more versatile and easy to combine with suits of most colors.
Socks, in turn, does not necessarily have to match the color of shoes. If we talk about a formal suit, tuxedo and black shoes, you should give preference to black socks. Otherwise, it is even better if the socks “do not merge” with the color of the shoes.